Today we made our first stop. Puerto Limon, Costa Rica is
surely not a tourist mecca. It is visited by cruise ships because it is a
convenient distance from the Panama Canal and I imagine having Costa Rica on a
cruise ship itinerary helps to sell it. The port is large but very much
industrial in nature. All the bananas produced in Costa Rica are shipped
through this port. Also all of the petroleum that the country uses comes
through this port, having arrived from Venezuela.
The town is pretty ugly in a tropical sort of way. In some
places, the vegetation is so thick it looks like if you stand in one place too
long some relentless vine or giant philodendron might swallow you up. Yards are
mostly dirt and there are bars on every window and balcony. The streets are
wide and paved but the general appearance of the town is forlorn, make shift
and lethargic.
Having said all that, Russell and I had a really nice day in
Puerto Limon. This was largely due to the fact that we had a most enthusiastic
and knowledgeable tour guide named Percy (yes that is right – Percy). For those
of you that have never cruised before, there is a whole procedure to going on a
“shore excursion.” Usually, one has to gather in the theatre and wait for your
tour to be called. Then, there is a mad dash only slightly disguised by a
veneer of civility as everyone tries first to get a sticker (your assigned bus
number) and then to get to the bus so that you can obtain a “good” seat.
Definitions of a good seat vary according to the individual but as far as
Russell and I are concerned a good seat has no obstructions (no window pillars or
curtains in the way), is usually toward the back of the bus but is far away
from the bathroom (funny story – the tour guide was explaining how he wanted
people to behave on the bus today and he mentioned that there was a bathroom on
board but that it was for emergency “number one” use only, then he said that if
you have a number two emergency or even a number “one and three quarters
emergency” (never heard of that one before) to tell him and they would be sure
to get you to a proper toilet.)
Anyways, our tour was advertised as an eco-train and jungle
cruise. This may have stretched the truth a bit as the extremely slow eco-train
went mostly through industrial areas of the town and ended after only a couple
of miles. Still we did see along the way sloths and howler monkeys (at least I
saw the howler monkeys because I had binoculars). Also northern raccoons (isn’t
that weird? I mean who knew raccoons were so adaptable?).
After the train ride we got back on the bus and rode to the
boat venue. We were served fresh fruit and beverages before boarding an open
air but covered party barge type boat. We went up and down a murky river past
abandoned enterprises and houses in varying states of decay. But again it was
all good because a.) the breeze from the boat moving was refreshing, as it was
extremely humid and eighty-five degrees and b.) because our tour guide and the
boat operator were enthusiastic and sighted numerous birds (yellow crowned
night heron, little blue heron, snowy egret, great kiskadee, kingfisher,
oriole, vulture) also sloths (both three- and two-toe), howler monkeys, and
bats. It was a successful but relatively short river cruise.
Best view of sloth was this guy who climbed up one side of a fence, navigated the razor wire, and went down the other side
Big stalks of bananas in blue bags (used to protect fruit from bugs and bruising, also to promote ripening)
Back on the bus our last stop was the Del Monte banana
processing plant. This may not sound like an interesting stop to some people
but it was very interesting for Russell and I because we both enjoy behind-the-scenes
looks at the way things are made. Not that they were making bananas but you get
my point. We watched as the big stalks of bananas were cut, sorted, washed,
stickered, bagged and packed. The jobs at the packing plant are considered plum
assignments. The workers make about three dollars and fifty cents an hour and
they work forty-eight hours a week for an average pay of seven hundred dollars
a month (which is above the national average of six hundred dollars a month).
We were back on the ship at around one o’clock. We went to a
lecture on the history of herbs and spices in the afternoon. I worked out. We
did some needlepoint. You know, the usual.
As I re-read this entry I am struck that what I’ve described
doesn’t sound too appealing and frankly I would have to agree that Puerto Limon
is not the sort of place one would come to for a vacation. But that doesn’t
mean it isn’t worth visiting. I believe pretty much any place is worth visiting
if only to see how people live in other parts of the world. And Puerto Limon
was more than that – we saw a lot of nature, met a charming and entertaining
Costa Rican (Percy) and ate a Lady Finger banana that had ripened on the tree.
The quality and variety of bananas is astounding around the world - we just have no idea in the US. I'm sure that you'll get to enjoy lots of varieties given your itinerary! I'm particularly fond of a chunky banana w/seeds in it that I ate all the time in Thailand (of course I have no idea what it's called, though).
ReplyDeleteI remember the little bananas I ate when I lived in Ecuador years ago. They tasted like banana "concentrate", like undiluted concentrated frozen orange juice before you mixed it with water. Intense and wonderful.
ReplyDeleteIt's a beautiful place, having such an open and joyous feeling to it. It's totally amazing! This is definitely a wonderful place to spend time. It's plenty fun to sit at lofty spaces and enjoy food and drinks with amazing conversations.
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