Today we visited the North Island of New Zealand. We woke up
to a mostly overcast sky but our view of the surrounding landscape was quite
special. One never knows what will be outside our window every morning.
After breakfast we tendered ashore and began our “Maori
Culture” tour. First stop was a historic site that featured the two oldest
English structures in New Zealand. Immediately I was struck by how different
everything seemed. The air was abuzz with cicadas humming and birds calling.
The humid but mild air prompted me to remember that it is summer in this part
of the world. I don’t know how to describe the feeling that I had. Objectively
the weather was not a whole lot different from what we experienced in Polynesia
and after but nevertheless it seemed quite different to me. Flowers were, of
course, blooming everywhere we went during the day. Indeed, the flora was quite
remarkable – big fat palms, giant ferns, eucalyptus trees and more.
After our brief initial stop we spent a longer period of
time at our second stop: a circular walk through an ancient Kauri tree forest.
This type of forest and tree were abundant throughout New Zealand two hundred
years ago but the Kauri tree proved very useful in shipbuilding and so there
are not a lot of these trees left. We were lucky enough to experience some of
them. The forest where these trees thrive is reminiscent of a tropical rain
forest. The trees themselves are quite fat and tall with interesting stone-like
bark and a very high but open canopy. On the floor of the forest is a huge
amount of decaying vegetation. The humidity is intense and tree trunks were
covered with moss, lichen, ferns and lots of other mini-plants. Even though
there were several buses from the boat visiting the forest at the same time, R
and I managed to slip off and experience the place in our own way (meaning no
guide/no group).
Walk in the woods
Our bus ride to the third stop of the day took us through
the New Zealand countryside. It consists of rolling hills punctuated by stately
trees and clusters of greenery. Actually the landscape was very green which
according to our driver is not characteristic of this time of year. Normally
the landscape would be a lot browner in color he said. We also saw lots of
happy cows and sheep. The houses were mostly modest (single story with a hipped
roofs of galvanized metal) but there was still a general air of prosperity and
peacefulness.
The Maori cultural center that we visited was a handsome
A-frame structure. We were welcomed with song. The women in our group proceeded
into the structure before the men but not before everyone took off their shoes.
Once inside we had to “touch noses” with each of the singers and tribal members
before taking our seat. This was an interesting experience – bending forward
and touching one’s nose to another person’s nose is not something that I have
ever done before but I enjoyed it even though I did worry a little bit about
germs. However, I certainly felt welcomed.
Getting ready to call us to meeting
Inside the ceremonial building there were many carvings on the
pillars and wall columns. Also the ceiling beams were decoratively painted with
abstract designs. The ceremony was essentially a welcome ritual. It consisted
of singing, a little dancing, a lot of talking and then some more singing. I
found it quite interesting though perhaps too long. The building is supposed to
be the place where the Maori remember their ancestors but it is also used for
overnight stays (on occasion) and funerals/wakes. The Maori feel that the breath
of life resides in the nose and therefore they place a high value on the nose
thus explaining the “touching noses” greeting.
After our introduction to Maori culture it was back on the
exceedingly squeaky bus for the forty-five minute drive back to the tender
pier. Our driver was very pleasant but inordinately fond of breaking and
accelerating with vigor which was not so pleasant. We stopped briefly at a
mission house where Charles Darwin stayed and also at a golf course with an
expansive view over the “Bay of Islands” before returning to the Amsterdam
around three forty-five. I quickly changed into my workout clothes and was able
to exercise while watching the sailboats on the bay and the scenery glide by as
we departed for our next stop -- Auckland. Lovely.
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